This will be an adventure! Jajpur is mentioned in the epic Mahabharata as the place where creator god Brahma performed a massive sacrifice; and as the pitha [seat] of the Goddess Viraja, the passionless. It’s one of the most ancient places in India! Here a part of Goddess Sati’s body fell to earth —- her right foot.

Ghats lead down to the sacred Baitarani River, in Hindu scripture the southern border of the civilized world. There is a temple to the White Varaha, a form of Lord Vishnu, and at the Shiva Trilochana [the 3-eyed] temple there is a courtyard filled with ancient sculpture. Jajpur is a large city and Orissa is one of the poorest States in India — be ready for some eye-opening experiences.

Chaurasi: A temple that looks beautiful in the photographs. It is devoted to the Tantric goddess Varahi, a divine sow: female energy of the boar Varaha, a form of Vishnu. There are not many temples dedicated to this form of the goddess.

Hirapur: Like the temple at Khajuraho, here is another dedicated to the Chausat Yoginis, the 64 scary sorceresses or witches. This one has many of its original images still in situ, standing on their vehicles. It dates from the 11th century.